Planking completed

 

The planking is now completed. In a manner of speaking, the structural work on the hull is basically done. However, there is a lot of work still to be done before the fiberglass goes on.

I had just barely enough epoxy left to finish the job. I used System Three Silvertip, which I thickened with #2 silica, as the last of my mahogany sawdust was gone. I was also running low on 1” silicon bronze screws. However, I did have plenty of 1-1/4” screws. So, I snipped the ends off of enough of them to finish the job, and they worked just fine.

Now its time for a lot of sanding.

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Deck framing completed

I suppose this wraps up the "blocking" phase I mentioned about a month ago. The last of the blocking was to support the deck framing, (which, on this little boat, only consists of two parts: a deck beam and a strongback).

I wasnt exactly sure where or how to trim and attach the strongback. I wound up following some examples from photos Id seen online, and I trimmed it short enough to let it mate to the back of the breasthook. Its hard to tell just yet, but that may have created an excessive downward curve. Time will tell. Once I get the bow and the remaining parts of the sheers faired in preparation for the decking, I should be able to tell if it will need a little shim on the top or not.

The deck framing is simply epoxied into place... no screws. Heres a photo of all the clamps & spreader bars involved.

Deck framing with the clamps removed.

Blocking for the strongback, on the back of the breasthook.

Blocking on the sheers, to support the deck beam.

Blocking on the back of frame #2, to support the strongback.

Notch in the deck beam for the strongback.

This part at the bow needs to be faired before the decking can be put on.

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Fiberglassing Completed

With the sounds of the Hallelujah Chorus still echoing in my ears, Im happy to say that fiberglassing work on the Utility hull is finally completed. Ive added a second layer of epoxy to the whole thing, and the next step will be to sand it down smooth in preparation for painting. Until then, at least, its nice and shiny.

The Next Problem?
For planing boats, the bottom of the hull is supposed to be flat along the aft 1/3 of its length. If its not flat, the boat will likely tend to porpoise (bounce up and down at the bow) at higher speeds.

For an 11-foot boat, 1/3 the length would be 3.67 feet. Checking the bottom of my boat with a 48" level, Ive found that the aft 36 inches is fairly flat. However, in the aft 48 inches, there is a noticeable hook that is about 1/16" in depth. So the unanswered question is, "will it porpoise?" Since the bottom of the hull is not as long the top, and the final 36 inches is flat... perhaps itll be okay. Perhaps not. Only time will tell.

Even though I dont know for certain just yet, Im tempted to go ahead and add a wedge to the bottom of the hull while its still upside-down and easily accessible. Ill think about it.

The gap between the hull and the level shows a hook of approximately 1/16" depth.

Progress on the Zip
Ive got the transom knee for the Zip built. While the plans call for a 1-1/2" wide knee (two 3/4" plywood parts laminated together), Ive added additional 1/4" pieces on either side to widen the knee to 2 inches. It should be plenty strong. 

Transom knee for the Zip.

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The Utility Chines finished Fairing completed

I have finally gotten the 2nd set of additional chine strips shaped down to my liking. Im predicting that all of the faired surfaces will still have to be adjusted a little when the planking is being fitted. Thats fine. For the most part, however, I believe the fairing phase is basically done.

The first part of the planking stage will be to cover the transom with a layer of the Meranti Hydrotek. My goal is to bright-finish the transom, and I want it to match the deck. Before I can add another layer onto the transom, however, I have to sand down some remnants of dried epoxy.

Here are some iPhone photos of the progress:

Starboard chine at frame #1.

Starboard chine at frame #1.

Port chine at frame #1.

I have to sand off these bits of dried epoxy before I can add another layer onto the transom.

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